Skim Coating | Floor Preparation

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About Skim Coating

Skim coating in floor preparation is a process in which a compound is applied to the subfloor as an underlayment to reduce variations in the floor and provide for a smooth and adherable surface over which new floor coverings can be installed. Sometimes a floor requires a thick layer (up to a 2 inches) of cement patching compound to eliminate issues and make it ready.

In our case in New Holland, PA where we were installing sheet vinyl over a previous layer of sheet vinyl, all we needed was a thin skim coat layer. We used Ardex Feather Finish to smooth the surface as well as to introduce a drying agent for the adhesive. Feather finish is self-drying. It crystalizes the water enabling it to dry without the need for evaporation. If, for example, you install your new sheet vinyl directly over vinyl without embossing (putting a thin layer of mud over the surface and thus providing a gripping surface), the glue is not likely to dry and may not grip to the finish of the vinyl.


Do you need to update your old floor with some new luxury sheet vinyl? Give us a shout!


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Our installers Chad and Joel Martin made this skim coat as smooth as butter for the new sheet vinyl to be installed. The layer of coat is very thin, measuring 1/16” to 1/32”. It’s just thick enough, however, to eliminate telegraphing of the old floor (where the patterns, lines, and bumps in the subfloor’s surface show through to the new layer of flooring). You wouldn’t want this straight-lay pattern showing through to your new flooring with, say, a brick-set pattern. Besides the problem that would be presenting by glue that didn’t adhere, it would be unsightly!

Good work, gentlemen.


Did you know that much went into installing vinyl flooring in a kitchen?

New Holland Transport

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In the summer of 2018, New Holland Transport (NHT), temperature controlled trucking and cold storage warehouse, completed their new facility in Denver, PA. We had the privilege of providing flooring for their project, installing tile, carpet, and vinyl in several rooms and spaces. Here are some shots with details about the work and specific products!

STAIRWAYS | Steps + Landings

For the stairs, Josh Plank, our lead flooring technician, installed Roppe Heavy Duty round nose treads and risers in steel blue. The treads are constructed of a highly durable rubber with a raised design. These treads are going to last a long time and look great! For more detailed information on this product, check out Roppe’s site. Great choice, NHT!

On the landing of the stairways, Josh installed Parallel 20 Los Angelimed wood-look LVP manufactured by Armstrong Flooring with 1/4” plywood underneath as well. Each glue-down plank, measured 6” x 48”. LVP should serve them well as it’s easy to clean, scratch resistant, and resilient. You can learn more about this product on Armstrong’s site. There was also some carpet on one of the landings that we will talk about in the next section…

UPSTAIRS BANQUET AREA | Kitchen + Carpet

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Upstairs, we installed some more Armstrong Parallel 20 LVP and a backsplash. The tile used in the backsplash was a 6” x 6” tile by Vallelunga in style Pietra Romana and color Grigio. For grout, we used Laticrete Spectralock Epoxy grout in light pewter. In terms of stain prevention and durability, epoxy grout is excellent and outperforms all other types of grout. For more information about the grout, visit Laticrete’s site.

The carpet tile installed is a Philadelphia Commercial product in color “Embrace Courage”. The 4.5” carpet base installed is also a Philadelphia Commercial product in their Emphatic II 30 style line in color Weather Vane. Who knew you could use carpet as baseboard?

TILE | Upstairs Bathroom & Downstairs Kitchen

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On the floors in the downstairs break room, bathrooms, and at the foot of the stairs is a tile from American Olean (AO) style Bevalo measuring 18” x 18” in color Charcoal grouted with Laticrete Spectralock Epoxy color Natural Grey. The tile base was the same style and color tile from AO measuring 3” x 12”. A durable tile that will serve them well!

On the walls in the bathrooms, we installed a Marazzi tile style San Savino measuring 12” x 24” with the same Natural Grey Spectralock grout. Finishing the top row of tile is a bullnose tile. Tile can be set in a number of different ways. NHT chose a brick set pattern for the wall tile and straight-lay pattern for the floor.

THANK YOU

Thanks for reading and thank you NHT for the privilege of providing you with quality flooring solutions for your new space!

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A Conversation with Josh Plank, Lead Flooring Technician

There’s a lot more to installing new floors than securing them in place. From material selection to properly preparing the subfloor to putting the finishing touches on the project, there are many details to take into consideration to make the final product excellent. It’s these fine details that separate the good from the great. In this video, we’re talking to our lead technician, Josh Plank, to hear of the provisions our installers make to ensure a beautiful and enduring work. With this presentation, we are also aiming to prepare customers for what to expect on a new flooring project and if they would happen to run into a need for repair down the road.

Transcript

Nick: Tell us a little bit about your experience in the flooring industry. You’ve been doing it for like 10 years or something like that?

Josh:  Actually, I have 17 years experience. I started working for my stepdad when I was 17 as a carpet helper. I’ve been at D&S for about a year and a half.

Nick: Having a good time?

Josh: Yeah, I like working here. I specialize in hard surface installations, anything other than carpet and ceramic.  I do do some of those from time to time. It’s not really my specialty but..

Nick: You can do it and get it done.

Josh: You have to be well rounded. Yep!

Nick: That’s excellent! From your perspective what should a customer take into consideration when they’re choosing a new flooring product?

Josh: That’s a good question. I mean, typically I would say skies the limit at this point. Most flooring now is designed for families with pets and kids. And there’s carpet with waterproof backing and pad with waterproof membranes on the top. A lot of the vinyl products that are popular right now. Vinyl planks, tiles.. the floating ones are waterproof. They’re putting more aluminum oxide in the finish of hardwood for scratch resistance. So I would say it’s really about what you like and how much you want to spend. I wouldn’t put carpet in a kitchen/bathroom obviously. As far as other things, I mean, I’ve seen lot of hardwoods going into kitchens now. 

Nick: Is it like a newer trend, the hardwood in kitchens?

Josh: The past 5/7/10 years has been, you know, coming around more. People do a lot more open layouts. They’re running the same thing throughout the whole downstairs her house. Whether it be hardwood or vinyl plank. The printing abilities they have now it looks more realistic now (vinyls) than they did 10-15 years ago. I’ve seen pictures of stuff… I’ve taken pictures of jobs where I was impressed with how it looked, and people were like, “Oh is that wood?”  And I say, “No, it’s actually a vinyl product.”

Nick: So you’ve worked with a lot of different materials. If you’re recommending to a customer in terms of what’s going to last the longest, what would be some of the top few things you would mention?

Josh: There’s two products to get out to me for for longevity and durability. They would be in cork (solid cork) and linoleum. They’re the two most green products, if you will, natural products. If they’re installed properly they can last 40 to 50 years or longer. Now the cost on those is fairly high and you really have to like what you’re putting in obviously if you want a floor to last that long. I would say right under that would be ceramic tile and solid wood, would probably be your next step down. And then you’re looking at your engineered’s, your vinyl products, your sheet vinyls, your vinyl planks/tiles that sort of thing. Then carpet would be at the bottom of the list. I’m not saying that carpet’s going to last you two days or anything like that, but it’s not, I would say, as durable. It’s a softer product than some of the more hard surface things. 

Nick: There really are a lot of options out there for customers. Options out there for customers so let’s talk a little bit about demolition and removal what should customers expect and what typically goes into that part of the process

Josh: Removal and demolition is typically your job most labor-intensive part of the job depending on, obviously, what you’re removing. Ceramic tiles for example, if you are tearing out a bunch of that, I mean, that can take a week depending on the size of the job. Usually, we plastic stuff off as best we can. Carpet… I mean, you can go from that end of the spectrum down to carpet which is usually cutting stuff up and taking out the tack strip and the pad staples. Typically, that’s not quite as long of a process. We do try to keep, you know, dust down/noise down as much as we can. However, we are a construction company. I know a lot of people don’t typically put flooring in that category because it’s more of a decorating type of a thing, but we still are a construction company. 

Nick: So sometimes customers will do the demolition, but we also offer that?

Josh: sometimes people want to tear it out themselves, save some money. That’s fine. But typically I say about 80 to 90% of the projects, we do the tear out/demolition. 

Nick: So taking care of the environment, I know, is important to us. What are some of the things we do to ensure that?

Josh: For example, if we are tearing out hardwood, typically we burn that; as opposed to putting that in a landfill. Cardboard we recycle. The only problem is, construction waist is hard to dispose of to wear it doesn’t go into a landfill. We strive for the best we can do in that area.

Nick: so tell us a little bit about what goes into floor preparation.

Josh: floor preparation would be, especially on the hard surface end, Going to be the foundation that you build upon. A good analogy is a foundation like a house. You could have the nicest looking house in the world put your foundation could not be up to par…

Nick: and that would make all the difference..

Josh: Exactly. So as far as floor prepped, mostly for what I do… Typically you’re looking to get a floor smooth. OK? And as flat as possible. We don’t want to say level because unless you’re pouring self leveler, you’re not going to get a level floor. That can be done at a cost… Basically from my end of it, I am looking at.. concrete: is there a hump that can be ground out? Is there a low spot that can be filled in by pouring on cement patching compound? Holes: they need to be filled as well. Wood substrates: You’re looking at your subfloor joints. They need sanded. Another key thing for what I do typically is under cutting. That could be door jams, brick hearths, stone hearths, brick walls, even ceramic tile walls in bathrooms can be undercut. It gives you a more finished look to a job, almost like it was meant to be there, as opposed to (scribing). We are able to scribe material, but to me, the more you can undercut the better of the job you’re going to get as far as aesthetics go.

Nick: Wow! So a lot goes into floor preparation.

Josh: yeah, I would say typically, 60% of the work that’s done for me would be floor prep.

Nick: if you don’t do floor preparation right, it’s not necessarily going to be hidden by the product that goes on top.

Josh: Correct. Yeah. Typically, floating floors are usually the real key to that one because they are floating, and if you have a lot of variance in your floor, you can feel movement up-and-down. Say for example you’re working in a house that was built in 1870, say. The subfloor in there can be fairly wavy. It’s not going to be like you’re working in a house that was built 10 years ago that you’re trying to redo where everything is a lot more flat. We do the best we can with what we have to work with and communicate that with the customer to handle their expectations as well.

Nick: We make it a point at D&S to be excellent at what we do. What would you say distinguishes us as ‘expert installers”?

Josh: There’s plenty of things in that. Attention to detail is definitely A big one. Professionalism on the job… We are a service business. It’s not just about putting a floor in. I mean, it’s about communicating with the customer, handling their expectations, holding ourselves to a high standard as far as installation goes, installing a floor properly per manufacturers recommendation, (and) making every job look the way a customer in vision is it looking. Technically, you could be the best flooring installer in the world and not be able to communicate with someone and it’s basically pointless. That to me is what really separates the good ones from the great ones. The attention to detail thing is definitely key. Flooring installers have to wear a lot of different hats. We do trim-work. We do concrete finishing if you want to call it that. I mean, we do a lot of different things.

Nick: You’ve been installing for 17 years, what are some of the top mistakes you’ve seen made or maybe some DIYers would make?

Josh: floor prep is a big one. I mean, again… To me it always goes back to that. Undercutting jams… Not Knowing how to properly finish the floor as far as, like, on a hardwood installation puddy-ing nail holes correctly, Installing trim-work correctly, installing… Moldings or a big one. Transitions. Transitions our very difficult to install sometimes..

Nick: Transitions.. so one type of flooring goes into the next?

Josh: Correct.

Nick: Or maybe different levels?

Josh: Yep. Different levels of floor, different heights. What do you do here or there? Making transitions work that aren’t necessarily designed for the use that you need them to do.  Not nailing underlayment correctly Is another one I see. If you don’t have enough nails in your underlayment, overtime they could bubble up, almost like a trampoline type of fact. When you push down… Your flooring is glued or adhered to the underlayment but the underlayment is not adhere to the sub floor… Not caulking properly is another one. I mean, the sky is the limit. I’ve seen all kinds of stuff.

Nick: (Laughing) yeah.. One time there was like a hole, right? And someone took a soda can?

Josh: Oh yeah yeah.. i’ve seen soda cans nailed on top of holes in the floor. I mean, just anything you can imagine.

Nick: So something that would distinguish as Expert installers is, yeah the final product, but all that goes… All that hidden stuff that goes into floor preparation.

Josh: I would say… There is a flooring company where part of their name is flooring systems. So basically, they are saying that from their glue to the prep to the material is one system. And that’s what we’re trying to do. Everything in the system plays a part from top to bottom.

Nick: So in terms of percentage, how much time is spent on installation?

Josh: So percentage of time on installation I would say depends obviously on the type of flooring you’re doing. Sheet vinyl’s: it could be as little as 20% of actually installing sheet vinyl on a job, and the rest could be floor prep and installing trim-work. Hardwood: a little bit more, probably 40%. Same thing with carpet, but again, a lot of your time and hard surface goes into floor prep and a lot of the finishing stuff. 

Nick: You’re going into a customers home, and they are excited. They are getting their new floor, you know, put in that day or, you know, The next two days. Maybe what’s something customers should expect for like the day of installation or like maybe even before hand?

Josh: If we are moving furniture, we can do that. We typically ask if a customer can move some of the small items out, out of their furniture. Say if you have a China cabinet where you have a bunch of breakable things in there, we ask that you remove those. If, you know, in a residential house if we need access to water or power… If we can use those things, that we have access to them as well…  if we are grouting a floor or gluing a floor, pets should be put away where they’re not going to, you know, run through something you can track throughout the house.

Nick: When you’re installing, is that room typically off-limits?

Josh: Depending on what you’re doing, it can be. With grouting especially, you don’t want any traffic on that for 24 hours. Heavy rolling loads on vinyl floors, anything glued down. I mean, we can put fridges and stoves back. Once it’s installed, we roll them or carry them in on something to protect the floor. Foot traffic is normally is ok. Typically I say if I’m walking on the floor, you can. Showers and things of that nature, I’m not 100% sure on the timeline for that. I believe its 3 days after, 3 to 4 I think.

Nick: In terms of getting it wet?

Josh: Right. Exactly. If I’m installing vinyl in your bathroom and I caulk at your tub, you know, silicone caulk your tub. You can use your shower but just be mindful that caulk usually takes 24 hours to cure. 

Nick: So we’ll talk about repairs at this point. What are some of the most common repairs that you find yourself doing?

Josh: I would say, carpet: “Oh my dog tore a hole in something..” or “my cat”. You spill something on your carpet or burn it (with a) hot pan/candle. Hardwood would probably be like a scratched board or something you drop something on and put a ding in it. Same thing with vinyl plank. Sheet vinyl I see a lot of, “Oh! I moved my fridge out to clean it. And I… there’s a divot when I rolled it back.” 

Nick: As you’re going out to make these repairs, what are some of the easier flooring types to fix

Josh: Carpet is probably the easiest. That and sheet vinyl. Typically you can, you know, cut a square out or cut a tile in your vinyl pattern out and put another one in. Hardwood and like glue-down vinyl planks fairly easy. Engineered wood would be easier. Typically you’re cutting a board out and glueing another one in place. Solid wood is a little trickier than that. It’s a little harder to get that in. The two hardest would probably be a floating floor and ceramic tile. Floating floors are notoriously hard to fix because, you know, it’s a floating floor and you’re not adhering it to anything except the locking system. So typically, it can be… tricky. It’s very time-consuming because they don’t always want to go back together properly. You’re having to glue and this and that but not glue to the floor. 

Nick: So it’s possible but just maybe something customers can be aware of when they’re purchasing a floating floor. Hey, if this plank gets ruined it’s fixable but it’s going to take a little bit of time.

Josh: Right. Yeah. And I’m not saying it’s going to take days. It would just take an extra hour or two.

Nick: Any other general comments you would have?

Josh: I know all of our guys are passionate about what they do and are striving to do the best job that, you know, that we can for you. To me, if you’re not passionate about something, you’re not going to be good at it. I know for myself, I’m really passionate about flooring and I have been and I will be. I mean, I can’t see myself working in any other industry. When you’re shopping for a company to use is to keep that in mind because you do ultimately get what you pay for and that all goes into it. 

Nick: Thanks for sharing that Josh!

Josh: Yep, (I) appreciate it. 

7 Indoor Flooring Maintenance Tips

clean, maintain, and protect your hardwood, tile, resilient vinyl, and carpet flooring

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HARDWOOD

Whether engineered or solid, these insights will help you keep your hardwood floor in good shape.

  1. Sweep, dust and vacuum your floors. If using a vacuum, attach the proper hard floor adapter to avoid scratching the finish of your wood.

  2. Use the right cloth. Microfiber is best. It kind of goes without saying, but especially avoid steel wool, scouring powders, or abrasive cleaners. Also avoid using a buffing machine. You know, the ones designed to remove floor finishes...

  3. Use the right cleaner. Choosing the proper cleaning solution depends on the finish of your hardwood (surface finish or penetrating finish), not so much the wood itself. Using oil-based, wax, polish or strong ammoniated products can dull your floor’s finish, and that would not be cool. We carry Shaw Floor's hard surface cleaner in our showroom. (You may have noticed Josh demonstrating it.)

  4. Wipe up spilled water immediately. Dry any standing water as soon as possible. Even surface finished hardwood can suffer water damage.

  5. Don’t mop (in the traditional sense where you're soaking your floors with lots of water). Mopping your hardwood floor introduces way more water than you’d ever want to spill onto your floor by accident. This excess water could seep into the wood fibers and cause swelling and warping, and that would be sad 😢

  6. Use entry mats and floor protectors. Implementing the use of entry mats in high traffic areas and floor protectors underneath heavy furniture can increase the lifespan of your floor. Ask us for some felt floor protectors, and we'll hook you up.

  7. Rearrange Your Furniture Periodically. Let your flooring share the load as evenly as possible by redirecting high traffic each time you move your furniture around.

    1. BONUS. So here’s another cool tip: If you drop gum or candle wax onto your floor, you can remove it by first hardening it by rubbing it with an ice cube and then scraping it off with a plastic card.

TILE

Keeping your ceramic, porcelain, or natural stone tile at its best.

  1. Sweep or vacuum first. Before using any cleaning solutions on your tile, remove dirt and debris with a soft-bristled broom or vacuum with a hard surface attachment to avoid putting scratches in your glazed tile.

  2. Glazed tile cleaning. Mmmm… glazed. After sweeping or vacuuming, clean your tile with an all-purpose (non-oil-based) household cleaner. Mixing some water with a mild detergent also works. If you’re feeling creative, you could introduce an acidic ingredient like fresh lemon juice to your cleaning solution, effective for removing soap scum and alkaline type stains. Don't add an acidic solution to your cleaner if you're cleaning marble or other natural stone flooring. The pH balance in your cleaning solution needs to be neutral or it will break down your material. Read more about caring for your natural stone flooring in this article.

  3. Unglazed tile cleaning. Unglazed ceramic or porcelain (man-made) tile lacks the melted glass coating of its glazed counterpart. It’s a lot less slippery when wet but more porous which means you need to be more gentle when cleaning it. Hot water and white vinegar mixture is recommended. The vinegar mixture is great especially if you have kids and pets since it’s chemical-free and safe if ingested.

  4. Cotton, microfiber, or chamois-style cloths. Avoid using sponges or sponge mops as they tend to push dirt and grime into cracks and grout joints.

  5. Grout Joint Cleaning Tip. Mix baking soda and water together, forming a paste, and rub it onto your dirty grout joints. After letting it sit overnight, scrub the grout with a stiff nylon brush. Repeating this step to get your desired results may be necessary.

  6. Reseal your floors. If you want your tile installation to keep looking good and remain mostly impervious to stains, seal them after installation then reseal them every year to 2 years. If water doesn’t bead on the grout lines, it’s probably time for the resealing regimen.

  7. Protection. Tile is strong, but it still suffers wear and tear. the use of mats in high traffic areas and floor protectors underneath furniture is recommended.

RESILIENT VINYL

Follow these tips to keep your resilient vinyl flooring (Sheet/LVP/LVT) in tip top shape.

  1. Immediately following installation. Keep foot traffic to a minimum. And for glue down vinyl, avoid putting furniture on the floor until after the first 24 hours.

  2. Clean Daily. (Or at least make that your aim) Clear your floor of potentially damaging dirt and grit by dust mopping or sweeping every day. Having good entry mats can cut down on the amount of dirt and oil tracked inside from the great outdoors.

  3. Clean spills immediately. Vinyl is waterproof but leaving a spill standing on your floor for a long period of time increases the chance of staining.

  4. Protection. Hopefully you get this by now. Protective mats (without rubber or latex backing) at high traffic areas and pivot joints (like in front of your kitchen sink) can increase the longevity of your floors and prevent visible wear spots. Floor protectors (plastic or felt) that are non-pigmented and at least an inch wide are recommended.

  5. Avoid direct sunlight. This is a tip for all flooring and furniture, really. Lower the blinds during bright times of the day to minimize direct sunlight on your floors. Over time, it can cause discoloration. Excessive temperatures can also cause expansion of the vinyl material. While some companies are coming out with dimensionally stable options, it's still a good tip!

  6. Do not use vinegar or soap or detergents. Soaps and detergents can leave a dulling effect on your floor's finish. Use an approved resilient vinyl cleaning solution like Shaw Flooring’s R2X Hard Surface cleaner or Mannington Flooring’s Rinse-Free Cleaner.

  7. Do not use a vacuum with a rotating beater bar. It could scratch your beautiful floor, and again, that would be so sad.

CARPET

Whether cut pile, loop, or the cut and loop carpet combo, follow these maintenance and cleaning care tips for your maximum carpet satisfaction.

  1. Install the Right Pad. During installation, get it right from the beginning with the proper carpet padding, especially on stairs. Check the carpet's warranty recommendations and explore your carpet pad options.

  2. Don't Track Dirt Inside. This is so obvious it's almost funny. But seriously, make your life easier and make your carpet's life longer by having good walk-off mats to keep the dirt, grit, soil, and asphalt outside and off your carpet.

  3. Vacuum Regularly. This is stated by one of our main supplier's as the most important maintenance tip. In light of this and the myriad of vacuum cleaner options on the market, we've included a link below to help you make an educated vacuum cleaner decision! We recommend that you then use that educatedly purchased vacuum cleaner to clean your carpets thoroughly, especially in high traffic areas.

  4. Treat the Affected Area Immediately. The sooner you can get at it, the better. The longer spilled foods or liquid stands on your carpet, the more likely they are to leave a stain.

  5. Clean Your Carpets Regularly. Using a hot water extraction method, clean your carpets every 12 to 18 months. It's recommended to hire a professional cleaning service and one that follows the Carpet and Rug Institute Seal of Approval. A poorly cleaned rug can actually increase the rate at which your carpet breaks down. So make sure you don't cut corners here.

  6. Minor Repairs. Use scissors to cut back snags or loose piles. If the there are small burn spots on the carpet, you can use a pair of curved nail scissors to cut back the burnt tips.

  7. Spot Cleaning. When spot cleaning, completely remove the detergent or solution used to avoid any residual sticky residue that just attracts more dirt. Derry, our owner, would highly recommend using Shaw Flooring's R2X Stain & Soil Remover, which doesn't need to be rinsed out. Bonus!

Here are some links to super helpful resources by two of our main carpet suppliers:

Shaw Flooring's Website of All Things Cleaning and Maintenance

Vacuum Recommendations: Mohawk's + Shaw's

UPRIGHT MODELS

Mary, Winner of the $1,000 Grand Prize // Open House 2018

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GRAND PRIZE DRAWING

For 2 years now, we've had the privilege of giving away $1,000 in flooring materials to a lucky winner at our open house event. This year, a local resident named Mary won the prize, and their family excitedly upgraded their kitchen and mudroom flooring!

PROPOSAL PROCESS

Josh Tangert, contract sales associate, walked Mary through the process of choosing the flooring material. He was also out at their home to take measurements in order to finalize the proposal. 

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Mary and her son in the D&S showroom in Ephrata with Josh, selecting her flooring.

INSTALLATION

Josh Plank, lead technician, managed the preparation, installation, and finishing of Mary's family's flooring from beginning to end. From moving furniture and appliances to special cuts, shoe molding, Josh created a beautiful finished product. 

Here are some photos of the finished product. Mary chose an Armstrong brand vinyl click-together floating floor.

A note about floating, click-together floors: One of the benefits of floating floors is less preparation time and in most cases, less material. With vinyl sheet flooring, a 1/4" underlayment is often needed before the new flooring can be installed. Many of the click-together vinyl products come with a backing already attached.

Flooring Material
Armstrong Vivero Best Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP)
Style/Color: Homespun Harmony Galvanized Gray
Plank Size: 9" x 48"

Warranty: Lifetime Limited Residential

 
 

Mary's kids enjoying their new floor.

Hey Josh! We are LOVING our new floors. We really enjoyed working with you from beginning to the end of the process. We love the importance of family that everyone we met seemed to share with us. Everyone we worked with seems to love and value their family so much, and we do too! (We waited long and worked hard to have a forever family and we adore them!) We would definitely recommend D&S Flooring for any and all flooring needs. You guys are welcoming, warm, knowledgeable, and easy to work with! I’m attaching a couple of photos of the kids enjoying the new floor. The girls were so excited to get home and see the progress each day and were thrilled to bits yesterday with the finished product!! Thank you so much. We thoroughly enjoyed our experience with you all!!
— Mary Olenhouse, June 7, 2018

OPEN HOUSE 2019

We look forward to doing this again next year! When we are 'blessed' by God, we believe it's to be a blessing to our community and feel privileged to serve people this way.

Thanks for reading!